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Took another look and couldn't find anything, sounds like you'll have to figure it out based on dyno rpm.

Can't find a second source to confirm.

Yup! That’s it.

They have subsections for the i4 engine and transmission now in the new html service manual available at the Lotus after sales center. The VSIC is no longer used or updated — it has an old pdf version of the manual which many are familiar with. There are however i4 changes that are not in this...

They do, they require you to run a cable from the steering wheel through the clock spring to a module you stick under the dash which connects to the the power and can high and can low pins of your obd2 port which they use to display vehicle data on the steering wheel. I really don’t recommend...

Glad the OP stuck around to substantiate any rumors.

Thanks for all the votes all -- there were lots of other fantastic photos submitted!

Haven’t heard anything about this, what’s your rumor source?

It's all in HTML now behind a subscription gate.

FYI, there are now updated July 2024 Service Manuals and Labor Times for both the V6 and I4, however they are no longer a PDF so they won't be easy to print.

As owners, what can be done?

Hubcentric interfaces are simply there to help correctly position and center the wheel on the wheel hub - they aren't responsible for taking road forces. Porter is indeed correct and that road forces are resisted from friction between the wheel and hub multiplied by the tension from the lug nuts...

PCD Parts will get you 10 or 15mm if you order, the shipping is a little high though.

I’ve seen some others on other platforms unfortunately.

100% do the procedure then, the lockout plate adjustment will fix this, it'll make your car so much more enjoyable to drive.

Probably 90%+ of us are using 10mm or 12mm spacers made by either PCD Parts or GRP. They’re all going to be CNCd 6082 T6, hub centric, and slip on. Two members I think are running 15mm spacers with the same qualities/features in the rear. A few members are maybe still on smaller 6-8mm spacers...

Porter is definitely not wrong. Surface prep and torque procedure is everything here, it applies to wheels and spacers. Adding spacers adds more prep work during the installation.

If you go into first from neutral at a stoplight to get started, do you find it easy or difficult to get into first gear, like physically getting it to there or does it sometimes feel like you’ve missed the shift gate. Do you ever find it easier to shift into seconds and then first? If you can...

Greg’s instructions are correct even about the button 2 and 3 mixup.

Oh I'm almost certain the replacements will also blister. Out of warranty the concern is Lotus still being around with replacement doors or fenders - and of course cost. Not sure about your metro area but replacing and repainting a panel for me would cost a good $10K+ USD, and that's ignoring...

We've seen these before, time to search. I think replacing the ECU was in order -- water damage to ECU.

Replacing the panel is the appropriate step for Lotus.

Yeah, not a lot of wheels are forged to the extent that Rays does.

Interesting, I like it — the big aluminum section doesn’t quite bother me much but having it all black is nice. Any issues unbolting and rebolting the shift assembly back down?

It’s hard to take a conversation about the m2’s looks seriously.

I like the light weighting you’re doing — I’ve got my own going on. But if I want a sub 3 0-60 I’m gonna have to add like a 30 foot rollout to get there. Onward to adding more lightness!

Doesn’t the new 992.2 911T one have shorter gearing and a move to the more engaging 6 speed from the 7 speed?

Sorry bro but that's delulu. The only place you're going to get sub 3 0-60 is in a spreadsheet.

This doesn't work for V6 owners right?

Damn, wish I were down there!

It’s just really cold okay?

I don’t think there are any mechanical issues outside of biomechanical ones. If i had my shifter too far back my elbow would collide with the armrest storage lid.

Perfect instructions.

If you feel like the shift positions are shifted closer towards the back you likely messed up the shift position reinstallation, you should also be keeping the gear in neutral while doing it and making sure not to shift the shifter position at the bell housing or the cable length. I’m guessing...

Should be an easy enough fix for them given that you're in the UK. They have lots of experience replacing them too.

You’re right these are within 20hp of bone stock cars — that’s a lot of money to pay for very little gain.

I didn't melt mine but Migz did so I designed him a new box for the PCB with his help on taking measurements on the circuit board.

To those of you who may have melted your Milltek Sport Valve controller for the Emira by mounting it behind the license plate. 1.) Disconnect the connector to the module. 2.) Remove the melted case. 3.) Check if it still works with the case removed, if that's the case you can keep going here...